‘Carve her own legacy’: Challenges ahead as Maryam Nawaz Sharif takes over reign of key Pakistani province 

Special ‘Carve her own legacy’: Challenges ahead as Maryam Nawaz Sharif takes over reign of key Pakistani province 
This handout photograph taken and released by the Directorate General Public Relations (DGPR) of Punjab province on February 26, 2024, shows Governor Punjab Muhammad Balighur Rehman (C) take oath during a ceremony helmed by newly elected Chief Minister of Punjab province Maryam Nawaz Sharif (2R) as Pakistan's former Prime Ministers and leader of Pakistan Muslim League Nawaz (PMLN) party Nawaz Sharif (R) and his brother Shehbaz Sharif (2L) look on at the Governor's House in Lahore. (AFP/DGPR)
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Updated 27 February 2024
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‘Carve her own legacy’: Challenges ahead as Maryam Nawaz Sharif takes over reign of key Pakistani province 

‘Carve her own legacy’: Challenges ahead as Maryam Nawaz Sharif takes over reign of key Pakistani province 
  • Maryam is fourth member of Sharif clan to become CM of Punjab, Pakistan’s politically most important province
  • 2024 general election was first time Maryam contested polls, has not held a prominent elected office before

ISLAMABAD: As Maryam Nawaz Sharif, daughter of former prime minister Nawaz Sharif, made history this week by becoming the country’s first woman chief minister, political rivals decried nepotism while analysts said she had “her work cut out for her” governing the country’s most politically important province of Punjab. 

Maryam secured 220 votes in Monday’s election for the chief minister of Punjab, which accounts for 53 percent of Pakistan’s 241 million population and contributes 60 percent of its $350 billion GDP. Her opponent Rana Aftab Ahmad Khan could not secure a single vote as the opposition Sunni Ittehad Council party backed by jailed former prime minister Imran Khan boycotted the proceedings, saying the Feb. 8 general election was rigged. 

Elections earlier this month were the first time Maryam contested polls, representing her father’s Pakistan Muslim League-Nawaz (PML-N). This is also the first time she will hold an elected public office, and that too in Punjab, the heartland of Pakistan military, political and industrial elite, a difficult terrain to manage even for the most experienced politicians. 

But Punjab is also the home province of the Sharif family, and Maryam is expected to have guidance from veterans in her family, not least her father, a three time former prime minister, and her uncle Shehbaz Sharif who has been Punjab CM multiple times in the past and is set to become prime minister for a second time this week. Her cousin Hamza Shehbaz, the younger Sharif’s son, has also served as CM of the province. 

Aftab, her opponent, said Maryam’s appointment was “yet another case of nepotism as her family is known for picking relatives and friends to top positions whenever it comes into power.”

But Maryam thanked God during the appointment ceremony and promised she would equally serve those who voted for her and those who didn’t. 

“The doors of my heart and office will remain open for the opposition as well,” she said.

Several commentators welcomed the appointment of a woman as CM, a significant milestone over seven decades after Pakistan’s creation. 

“We have the first woman chief minister of Punjab, which in itself is an achievement for someone who comes from a conservative family background and a male-dominated and traditional political party,” commentator Mehmal Sarfraz told Arab News. 

“There’s no doubt that being Nawaz Sharif’s daughter helped her but it can only help her so much. Now she has to prove her leadership skills, and carve out her own legacy.”

POLITICAL CAREER

Prior to entering politics, Maryam was involved with the Sharif family’s philanthropic organizations and served as the chairperson of the Sharif Trust, Sharif Medical City, and Sharif Education Institutes. She formally joined politics in 2012 when she was put in charge of the PML-N’s election campaign ahead of 2013 general elections, which the party won, propelling her father to the prime minister’s office for the third time.

After the elections, she was appointed the Chairperson of the Prime Minister’s Youth Programme, a position from which she resigned in 2014 after her appointment was criticized by political rival Imran Khan over nepotism and her university degree was challenged in the Lahore High Court.

She became more politically active in 2017 after her father was disqualified from the PM’s office and convicted by the Supreme Court of Pakistan in relation to corruption revelations in the Panama Papers. She campaigned for her mother, Kulsoom Nawaz, during by-elections for Sharif’s vacant seat in the NA-120 constituency in Lahore.

Maryam was herself convicted by an anti-graft court in 2018 and got seven years in jail in a corruption abetment case involving the purchase of high-end apartments in London. Her father was also sentenced to 10 years in prison in the case for not being able to disclose a known source of income for buying the properties. She was also disqualified from contesting in 2018 elections as convicted felons cannot run for office under Pakistani law.

Maryam was acquitted in the case in September 2022, months after Imran Khan was ousted from the PM’s office in a parliamentary vote of no confidence and her uncle Shehbaz Sharif became premier.

Maryam became increasingly involved in politics during her father’s four-year self-imposed exile in the United Kingdom and in 2019 was appointed vice president of the PML-N, leading significant anti-government rallies throughout the country and fiercely denouncing then-PM Khan, his PTI party and the military and judiciary for colluding to oust her father from the PM’s office.

On 3 January 2023, Maryam was appointed senior vice president of the PML-N, making her one of the party’s most senior leaders. She ran for two seats in the Feb. 8 general elections, for the National Assembly seat from NA-119 Lahore-III and for a seat of the Provincial Assembly of Punjab from PP-159 Lahore-XV. She won both seats and was nominated by her party as the candidate for Punjab CM.

“She has been through the grind and now coming to governance I think that she has come in prepared, which is evident from her speech,” journalist and talk show host Munizae Jahangir said. 

“She has already had her meetings with the bureaucrats and she has a work plan, a blueprint of a work plan of what she is going to do in the five years which she unveiled today.”

Among notable promises in her speech, Maryam vowed to transform Punjab into an economic hub, work on youth upliftment, launch free ambulances and medicine delivery, ensure school transport and make women’s safety, education and employment a priority. She said women’s harassment was a “red line” and announced that a “special package” was in the works for the transgender community.

“Now whether she walks the talk is something that we will have to wait and see but by and large her speech has been extremely good,” Jahangir said. “She has touched upon all the issues that plague not just Punjab but also Pakistan and seems to have her work cut out for her.”

Sarfraz agreed.

“Her roadmap seems like an ambitious plan so let’s see how she moves forward with it but it was good to see for a change that there was talk of reconciliation and not revenge, which has become a norm in our politics,” the commentator said. 

“The best thing about her speech was that she made it a point to highlight that being a woman was a strength and not a weakness. She talked about her experience as a mother, daughter, working woman and how harassment is a red line for her. This needed to be said.”

Dismissing Maryam’s lack of parliamentary experience, Sarfraz said a lot of the criticism against the politician was gendered:

“She gets more hate because she is a woman who has an aggressive style of politics. We don’t talk much about this angle of how our sexist and misogynist society hates an ambitious, opinionated and strong woman.”

DYNASTIC POLITICS

Maryam’s appointment was largely expected following the Feb. 8 parliamentary elections in which her father’s PML-N emerged as the largest party in the National Assembly, or lower house of the parliament, and in the Punjab Assembly.

The PML-N, which was initially trailing candidates representing Khan’s supporters — the former cricket player turned politician was barred from running — emerged last Friday as the largest single winner in the election after receiving 24 additional seats — 20 from out of the 60 seats reserved for women, as well as four seats out of 10 reserved for minorities. Nine independent members have also joined the PML-N.

The party is now heading into a coalition with the Pakistan People’s Party (PPP), and Shehbaz Sharif, the younger brother of Nawaz, on a firm path to becoming the next prime minister, his second term in office. Khan’s party has rejected the election results, alleging widespread rigging. 

The Sharifs are one of the top two families that have dominated Pakistani politics for decades, the second being the Bhuttos of Sindh. 

“I have never thought that dynastic politics is a problem because I believe that whoever the voters want to vote for they should be allowed to, you can’t ban people just because they are somebody’s children or somebody’s father,” Jahangir said. 

“In this case it was very clear that she was a contender for the CM slot and I don’t think that she is that inexperienced … she had considerable experience in politics in opposition really and I think that opposition is when you really do have the tough time of doing politics in a place like Pakistan.”

But political analyst Dr. Huma Baqai said Maryam’s biggest challenge would be “credibility” and proving herself to the public.

“Political turmoil is not over in Pakistan. The fact that election results are not accepted on the ground by a huge section of the population will remain an issue [for Maryam]. There will be issues of credibility,” she said, describing the new CM’s roadmap as “the absolute pie in the sky promises of a person who does not have the experience.”

Dr. Hassan Askari, a longtime observer of Punjab politics, agreed that Maryam faced many challenges ahead. 

“She has presented a massive, a big-scale and very ambitious agenda,” the professor said. “That requires a lot of resources, virtually every aspect of administration has been covered. So, how do you mobilize resources for such an ambitious agenda?”

Jahangir, however, believed Maryam’s biggest challenge would be working with the all-powerful military, which has directly ruled Pakistan for almost half its history and is seen as the invisible guiding hand of politics even when not in power. 

In the run-up to elections too, widespread concerns were raised by independent analysts, activists and politicians of the military’s growing political power and its engineering of the pre-polling phase to keep Khan out of politics. The military denies it interferes in politics.

“I think the challenges for any politician in Pakistan is the military,” Jahangir said, “whether they will allow the politicians to run the province the way they want, whether they will be interfering in the running of the province. I think that is the real question.”


Washington says hopes to continue ‘constructive’ engagement with Pakistan on nuclear issues

Washington says hopes to continue ‘constructive’ engagement with Pakistan on nuclear issues
Updated 4 sec ago
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Washington says hopes to continue ‘constructive’ engagement with Pakistan on nuclear issues

Washington says hopes to continue ‘constructive’ engagement with Pakistan on nuclear issues
  • The US said this week it was imposing new sanctions related to nuclear-armed Pakistan’s long-range ballistic-missile program
  • State Department spokesman says latest designations based on concerns on missile program, didn’t affect other areas of cooperation

ISLAMABAD: Vedant Patel, a spokesman for the US Department of State, said on Thursday Washington hoped to continue to engage “constructively” with the Pakistani government on nuclear issues, including its concerns with the South Asian nation’s long-range ballistic missile program.

On Wednesday, the US said it was imposing new sanctions related to Pakistan’s long-range ballistic-missile program, including on the state-owned defense agency that oversees the program, the National Development Complex. State Department spokesperson Matthew Miller said the measures slapped on the NDC and three firms were imposed under an executive order that “targets proliferators of weapons of mass destruction and their means of delivery.” The sanctions freeze any US property belonging to the targeted entities and bars Americans from doing business with them.

Pakistan’s foreign ministry has called the US actions “unfortunate and biased” and said they would harm regional stability by “aiming to accentuate military asymmetries,” an apparent reference to the country’s rivalry with nuclear-armed India.

“The US is committed to maintaining the global nonproliferation regime, and Pakistan is an important partner in that. However, we have been clear and consistent about our concerns with Pakistan’s long-range ballistic missile program,” Patel told reporters at a press briefing, adding that it was a longstanding policy by Washington to deny support to Pakistan’s long-range ballistic missile program.

“The Department of State will continue to use sanctions and other tools to protect our national security and ensure that US exporters and US financial systems cannot be abused by proliferators. And it’s our hope to continue to engage constructively with the Pakistani Government on these issues,” the spokesman added. 

He said the latest designations were based on US concerns regarding Pakistan’s long-range ballistic missile program, but didn’t affect other areas of US-Pakistan cooperation.

A State Department factsheet said the Islamabad-based NDC had sought to obtain components for the country’s long-range ballistic-missile program and missile-testing equipment. It said the NDC “is responsible for the development of Pakistan’s ballistic missiles,” including the Shaheen family of missiles. 

The other entities slapped with sanctions were Affiliates International, Akhtar and Sons Private Limited and Rockside Enterprise, all located in Karachi, the factsheet said. It said the companies worked with the NDC to acquire equipment.

The Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists research organization says the Shaheen series of missiles is nuclear-capable.

Pakistan conducted its first nuclear-weapons test in 1998, becoming the seventh country to do so. The Bulletin estimates Pakistan’s arsenal at about 170 warheads.

Separately, US Deputy National Security Adviser Jon Finer on Thursday said Pakistan was developing long-range ballistic missile capabilities that eventually could allow it to strike targets well beyond South Asia, making it an “emerging threat” to the United States.

The senior White House official’s surprise revelation underscored how far the once-close ties between Washington and Islamabad have deteriorated since the 2021 US troop withdrawal from Afghanistan. It also raised questions about whether Pakistan has shifted the objectives of nuclear weapons and ballistic missile programs long intended to counter those of India, with which it has fought three major wars since 1947.

Speaking to the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, Finer said Pakistan has pursued “increasingly sophisticated missile technology, from long-range ballistic missile systems to equipment, that would enable the testing of significantly larger rocket motors.”

If those trends continue, Finer said, “Pakistan will have the capability to strike targets well beyond South Asia, including in the United States.”

The number of nuclear-armed states with missiles that can reach the US homeland “is very small and they tend to be adversarial,” he continued, naming Russia, North Korea and China.

“So, candidly, it’s hard for us to see Pakistan’s actions as anything other than an emerging threat to the United States,” Finer said.


With inputs from Reuters


Pakistan court orders arrest of senior police officers accused of staging blasphemy suspect’s murder

Pakistan court orders arrest of senior police officers accused of staging blasphemy suspect’s murder
Updated 17 min 59 sec ago
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Pakistan court orders arrest of senior police officers accused of staging blasphemy suspect’s murder

Pakistan court orders arrest of senior police officers accused of staging blasphemy suspect’s murder
  • Shahnawaz Kunbhar, a medical doctor accused of online blasphemy, was killed by police in an encounter in September
  • Government inquiry later said officers, including a deputy inspector general of police, had staged the encounter

KARACHI: An anti-terrorism court (ATC) in Pakistan’s Sindh province this week issued arrest warrants for six police officers, including a deputy inspector general of police, over accusations they had staged the murder of a doctor accused of blasphemy, but the suspects had not yet been arrested, his family said on Friday.

Dr. Shahnawaz Kunbhar, accused of sharing blasphemous content online, was arrested in Karachi and killed by police in Mirpurkhas on Sept. 18, 2024. Police said the killing was unintentional and happened when officers attempted to stop two men on a motorcycle, and one of them started shoooting, prompting them to return fire. Authorities said it was only after the shooting that they realized the man they had killed was the doctor they had been seeking in a blasphemy case. 

Mass protests in Sindh province and widespread social media outrage followed the doctor’s killing, leading to the formation of a government committee that concluded that Kunbhar was killed in a “staged encounter.” The Sindh provincial government subsequently suspended 10 officers, including a deputy inspector general, and filed charges against 34 suspects. It is rare in Pakistan for government action over violence against people accused of blasphemy. 

Ibrahim Kunbhar, the cousin of the deceased, confirmed to Arab News that the ATC had issued non-bailable arrest warrants for six officers, including former DIG Javed Jiskani, on Thursday. 

“But why do they need non-bailable arrest warrants to apprehend them? They should have been arrested long ago as their guilt has been proven in the official inquiry,” Ibrahim said in a telephone interview on Friday. “We demand that they be immediately apprehended and tried for the murder of Shahnawaz.”

The court also ordered the Federal Investigation Agency to present the accused officers before the court by January 8, 2025. Ibrahim said the FIA had recorded statements from five medical board members who exhumed Kunbhar’s body. One of them, Professor Dr. Waheed, confirmed signs of “torture,” including five broken ribs.

Accusations of blasphemy, sometimes even just rumors, can spark riots and mob rampages in Pakistan. Although killings of suspects by mobs are common, extra-judicial killings by police are rare, as is action against perpetrators of violence in blasphemy cases. 

Human rights groups and civil society organizations have urged the Pakistani government to repeal the country’s blasphemy laws, which they argue contribute to discrimination and violence. They have also called for a comprehensive review of law enforcers’ response to blasphemy accusations.
 


Pakistan joins world leaders in condemnation of Israel on D-8 summit sidelines

Pakistan joins world leaders in condemnation of Israel on D-8 summit sidelines
Updated 37 min 17 sec ago
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Pakistan joins world leaders in condemnation of Israel on D-8 summit sidelines

Pakistan joins world leaders in condemnation of Israel on D-8 summit sidelines
  • Pakistani PM Sharif, Turkish President Erdogan and Iranian President Pezeshkian discuss Gaza in separate meetings
  • More than 46,000 people including women and children have been killed during the 14-month war in Palestine

ISLAMABAD: Pakistani Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif has joined world leaders in condemning Israel’s ongoing military offensives in the Middle East as he attended a summit of D-98 developing nations in Cairo this week, his office said. 

On the sidelines of the forum, Sharif separately met Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan and Iranian President Masoud Pezeshkian after a special session was held on the conflict in the Middle East, where over 46,000 Palestinians, more than half of them women and children, have been killed since Israel launched its war against Hamas in Gaza in October last year. Israel has since carried out attacks on Lebanon as well, killing over 3,000 after accusing Hezbollah of targeting its military. This month, it took control of Syria’s buffer zone and bombed key military and strategic assets after the overthrow of the Bashar Assad regime by opposition forces.

“While condemning the Israeli genocidal actions against the innocent Palestinians, particularly the worsening situation since Oct. 7, 2023, the two leaders reaffirmed their unwavering support for the Palestinian people and their legitimate aspirations for a promised homeland,” Sharif’s office said in a statement after he held a bilateral meeting with Erdogan.

Sharif also separately met with Pezeshkian on the sidelines of the D-8 summit.

“Both leaders showed grave concern at the genocide of innocent Palestinians by Israel and agreed to continue raising their voice for the oppressed Palestinians,” the PM Office said in another press release. “The PM reiterated that Pakistan stands in complete solidarity with their brothers and sisters from Palestine, Lebanon and Syria.”

Since the beginning of Israel’s war on Gaza, Pakistan has repeatedly raised the issue at the United Nations, the Organization of Islamic Cooperation and other multilateral platforms and demanded international powers and bodies stop Israeli military actions. 

Islamabad does not have diplomatic relations with Israel and has for decades called for an independent Palestinian state with Al-Quds Al-Sharif as its capital.


Pakistan in good shape for Champions Trophy after winning ODI series in South Africa

Pakistan in good shape for Champions Trophy after winning ODI series in South Africa
Updated 46 min 11 sec ago
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Pakistan in good shape for Champions Trophy after winning ODI series in South Africa

Pakistan in good shape for Champions Trophy after winning ODI series in South Africa
  • Rizwan and Azam’s half-centuries along with Afridi’s 4-wicket haul sealed Pakistan’s 81-run victory
  • Pakistan will play their last match of the ODI series against South Africa on Sunday in Johannesburg

CAPE TOWN: Pakistan won a second straight major one-day international series away from home when it beat South Africa by 81 runs at Newlands on Thursday.

After beating Australia 2-1 last month, Pakistan has taken the Proteas 2-0 with a game to spare. Half-centuries by Babar Azam, captain Mohammad Rizwan and allrounder Kamran Ghulam staked Pakistan to 329 all out.

Heinrich Klaasen hit 97 but South Africa’s chase was strangled by Pakistan, and fast bowler Shaheen Shah Afridi ended the last meaningful resistance with three wickets in three overs. Klaasen was the last man out on 248 in the 44th over.

Pakistan’s fifth successive bilateral ODI series win puts it in good stead for the Champions Trophy it will host in February.

South African wicketkeeper Heinrich Klaasen, left, watches as Pakistans Babar Aam plays a shot during the second ODI International cricket match between South Africa and Pakistan in Cape Town, South Africa, on December 19, 2024. (AP)

It was unchanged from the three-wicket win on Tuesday in Paarl, made to bat first, and minus both openers in the first 10 overs.

Rizwan was smashed on the back of his helmet by debutant pacer Kwena Maphaka but gathered his senses with Azam in a steady but safe stand of 115.

The partnership was broken when Azam was caught at midwicket for 73 off 95 balls, his first half-century in any format for Pakistan since May, and his first in ODIs in 13 months.

When Rizwan followed three overs later for 80 off 82, caught and bowled by Maphaka when he was accelerating, Pakistan was forced to reset at 192-4 with 14 overs to go.

Amid four dropped catches by South Africa, Ghulam piled more misery on the host by smashing a 25-ball half-century on his fifth six. Ghulam was the last batter out for 63 off 32, the main plunderer as Pakistan scored 105 runs off the last 10 overs.

“Kamran Ghulam’s innings was absolutely fantastic,” Rizwan said. “We were looking for 300 but we got 300-plus, must give credit to him. I had trust in him but not like that ... that was something different.”

Pakistan wicketkeeper Muhammad Rizwan watches as South African batsman Heinrich Klaasen plays a shot during the second one day International cricket match between South Africa and Pakistan in Cape Town, South Africa, on December 19, 2024. (AP)

Set 330 to win, openers Temba Bavuma and Tony de Zorzi gave South Africa a promising start in the first 12 overs.

But spinners Abrar Ahmed and part-timer Salman Agha chipped out three top-order wickets and slowed the scoring so the run rate required gradually climbed.

Klaasen and the fit-again David Miller were reviving the chase and starting to charge when Miller was caught behind off Shaheen for 29, ending a stand of 72 runs in 12 overs with Klaasen.

Klaasen soldiered on, out three runs short of a fifth ODI century, as Shaheen grabbed 4-47 and fellow pacer Naseem Shah took 3-37.

The last ODI is on Sunday in Johannesburg.


Fire-grilled fish sajji is a sensation in Pakistan’s Sanghar city and beyond

Fire-grilled fish sajji is a sensation in Pakistan’s Sanghar city and beyond
Updated 50 min 39 sec ago
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Fire-grilled fish sajji is a sensation in Pakistan’s Sanghar city and beyond

Fire-grilled fish sajji is a sensation in Pakistan’s Sanghar city and beyond
  • Lamb or chicken sajji is popular in Sindh, Balochistan provinces but humble food stall has reimaged recipe with rohu fish 
  • Social media influencers and word of mouth popularity have helped put shop’s unique fish sajji on culinary map of Pakistan

SANGHAR: The glow of a crackling fire flickered from the humble food stall as dusk fell earlier this month over the small town of Sanghar in Pakistan’s southern Sindh province.

With no proper structure to speak of, the shop of Abdul Jabbar Mallah has little more than skewers, some chairs and the expertise of chefs who have honed their craft over decades, popularizing a type of slow-cooked fish sajji that draws customers from Sanghar and beyond. 

Sajji is usually made of lamb or chicken marinated in simple spices and slow roasted over an open flame to preserve natural flavors. Here in Sanghar, the classic recipe has been reimagined with rohu fish, a freshwater carp prized for its tender meat.

“It has been more than 20 to 25 years since I’ve been doing this work,” Mallah told Arab News last week as he skewered fish on wooden rods which he stuck into the ground in a circle around a fire to roast for two hours.

“The specialty of this sajji is that it is made from freshwater [fish]. Second thing is that no oil is used, it is dry, it is made without water, without oil. So, when people sit down to eat, even a two-kilogram piece of fish can be eaten by one person.”

The spices, a harmonious mix of coriander, white cumin and black pepper, add to the dish’s distinct flavor, with Mallah saying he avoided using city-bought spices when preparing the fish, which retails for $4.5 a kilogram. The smallest order is 2kg.

“This is why its taste is unique. People love eating local fish in local spices,” he said.

Mallah humbly acknowledged it was not him who invented the dish but his mentors, Ata Muhammad and Rajab Ali.

“My masters used to make it, and I learned from them,” he said, recounting famous clients like Pir Pagaro, an influential spiritual leader of the region whose forces fought against the British and who later played a role in Pakistani politics. Jam Sadiq Ali, a former Sindh chief minister in the early 1990s, was another top client who also ordered Mallah’s fish sajji for his son’s wedding.

Today, the popularity of Mallah’s innovatio has spread beyond the confines of Sanghar. Though the chef has been cooking fish for over two decades, visits by food and travel vloggers in recent years have made his sajji a culinary magnet for customers from around the country. 

That’s why an out-of-town guest had requested to try the fish, said Imran Khan Khilji, a local trader visiting Mallah’s stall.

“We came here especially because of this guest,” he said, pointing to a friend sitting next to him. “He has come to attend a wedding, and we said, ‘Let’s treat you to a delicacy of Sanghar’.”

Shehzad Jatt, a teacher, said he had been waiting nearly two hours to enjoy the sajji.

“This is Sanghar’s special dish, and they make it excellently,” Jatt said as he sat with a group of friends at Mallah’s shop, watching rows of sajji roasting in the chilly December night. 

“I’ve had fish at many places, but the fish from Sanghar is something else. The way the sajji fish is made here, I’ve never seen such a sajji anywhere else. Once you try it, you’ll know that the taste is unique.”

And Mallah is committed to preserving the flavors and the legacy of his mentors.

“The fish sajji that is prepared here in Sanghar, no one else makes it. Whoever tries to make it, it lasts only a few days, but after that, their shop doesn’t run because, by the grace of god, we have such a unique taste,” the chef said as he skewered a fresh batch of fish onto rods with his bony fingers.

“Allah has blessed our hands with flavor and people eat it and keep coming back.”